How To Repair Ball Joint Boot

Break & Steering
replacing brawl joint boots

Story by the backyard hack mechanic: Sean750
Certificate history:
# 05 Mar 2005: added pictures and comments from Mat Johanson, tnx Mat...and sorry it took so long to publish!
# 27 Mar 2004: added a remark about purchasing the boots
# 13 Mar 2003: initial version

Problem: damaged/cracked brawl joint boots of the control artillery of the front suspension

Models: all

Background: this commodity is about replacing a ball articulation kicking of the lower command arm. Merely the procedure about the upper control arm and the tie-rod end boots are the same.

These boots are pretty of import, it prevents sand, dirt and mud getting into your ball joints (nosotros are talking real high-tech at present). And then that is a good reason to supplant them when they are cracked. The boots of the upper control arm and tie-rod terminate are relatively like shooting fish in a barrel to replace, no need to unbolt several parts as well the cycle.

The lower control arm ball joint is a bit trickier. The big 22 mm nut of the ball joint is hidden under the lower part of the strut. So the strut must exist removed (iii bolts beneath to the steering arm and three bolts up at the strut tower). But if the strut has to exist removed, the restriction caliper must exist start removed. And y'all must detach the ABS connector. And the brake low-cal connector. Did I mention that also the stabilizer connection link (aka swing supports) must exist removed at least at 1 side?

So for just 2 simple boots y'all almost demand to dismantle the whole front suspension (a bit over the peak, I know). I don't like that because I am lazy. And this particular job had to exist done quick, very quick. Now the expert news, there is a faster way to do things, described here and to help yous out. Hallelujah! ;-)

Simply first something about tapered/conical ball joints. Especially nigh separating those. Throughout the years, I separated ball joints by using a large steel bar, a couple of hammers and lots of beast force, extreme violence, gallons of sweat and terrible curses. I always succeed, applying more and more than force and larger steel bars every bit ball joints getting bigger. I was getting pretty tired well-nigh that (it sometimes damaged parts, what a surprise), and so last weekend I decided to bite the bullet and bought me a 12 Euro/USdollar ball-articulation (necktie-rod) puller and a 11 Euro/USdollar pickle fork. I detest pickle forks, just just in case the separator won't do the job. Practice you ever kiss your tools? Me neither, but terminal weekend I kissed the puller afterward working with it, wishing that I purchased this thing xv years earlier (half a year later, while doing this procedure on my 750, I have a different opinion about these 'quality tools', so read on...).

Get the story? Be smart and buy yourself a decent tie-end rod puller if you but don't want to hammer and bang with steel bars, hammers and pickle forks ruining your suspension parts.

Last remark: y'all can't buy these boots at your local BMW dealer. They don't take partnrs, BMW assumes you supplant the whole arm. Try your local motorcar parts seller, have the quondam kick with you lot to prove to them considering they come in different sizes.

Permit'south offset unbolting parts: jack the motorcar up at the front, remove both wheels and place jackstands. REMARK: I performed this functioning twice on 2 separate bimmers (an E34 and an E32), and the photo's taken are from both procedure's. The procedure is identical:

At present remove the 3 19mm bolts holding the lower strut assembly to the steering arm:

Unbolting the lower finish (three x 19 mm and they are pretty tight):

When the bolts are removed, push the steering arm (with some force) down to release information technology from the strut. Motion the strut aside. Remember this is the quick method, and so things can be in your way sometimes:

This is the E34:

And this the E32:

You lot see that everything is all the same continued and the steering arm is revealing the big 22 nut holding the lower control arm to the steering arm. Now remove the big 22 mm nut. Yous'll notice that is difficult to unbolt it, because the suspension parts are moving. I succeeded in using a hammer with socket and wack it firmly (remark: you'll need 2 hands to practise this..i for the hammer and one to hold the socket downwards...only you lot get the signal):

And yes:

After the nut is loosened, y'all must separate the brawl joint from the steering arm. This can exist doing by using the pickle fork (shown on other wheel with brake caliper and rotor removed for better agreement):

Or the ball joint separator (again, highly recommended). If you turn the bolt on the separator very tight and it isn't still separated, try some whacks on the steering arm side:

This did it for the E34, but the tapered end of the ball joint of the E32 was so incredible thight, that I ended up with a smashed pickle fork and a ruined ball joint separator (and so far the 'quality' tools..hah!). And no separated ball joint. These tools wheren't exactly quality tools, if yous inquire me. I finally removed the lower control arm and wacked the lower strut assembly loose from the lower control arm on my workbench with an oversized hammer.

Back to the job. Push the ball articulation downward (if you succeeded separating information technology) and motion the steering arm abroad. It'south getting a bit decorated down there:

Remove the large circlip property the boot in place. Try non to damage information technology, you'll demand for the new kick. Remove the onetime kicking and clean things up. Remove the grime and clay (I used a small brush for that purpose):

Pack it up with grease (other lower control arm shown):

Install the new boot (this was the E32 control arm, at the back you lot'll encounter the separated lower strut assy):

The old boot versus the new boot:

Employ some grease on the ball articulation, just don't overdo information technology. Install the new boot and be careful installing the circlip. You can easily harm the new kicking (I used some pieces of vacuum hose slided on both ends of the circlip, protecting the boot). It can be a hassle to install the clip right, due to the fact that steering arm and strut are blocking the mode. Just you wanted a quick method, retrieve?

When reinstalling the 22mm locking nut the brawl articulation will as e'er plough, not making things very like shooting fish in a barrel. Use pliers to hold the bottom of the ball joint to the steering arm. This will printing the tapered articulation further into the arm. Continue it pressed until y'all feel that the nut is secured:

And once more, that was about it. It can be difficult to put the strut back on the steering arm, positioning it. Y'all can also use pliers here, pressing the steering arm against the lower function of the strut. Tighten bolts, reinstall wheels, get a beer etc.etc.

Again, those ball joints can exist a real bear to split. If you are really desperate, you tin can remove the entire lower strut associates, take it to your workbench and show that damn thing who's the boss. Mat Johanson sends us pictures and teach u.s. how to handle reluctant ball joints:

" I only want to give you some good pictures of how to handle conical connections in the front suspension without expensive tools...A practiced sledgehammer or two...Only requite it some massage and it volition walk out by itself. When I remove the steering end I practical some pressure by the jack.

Yous can run into that I apply the socket on a almost completely removed nut. This makes information technology easier to see when it is loosened and speeds upwardly the procedure. About 5 adept hits with the big hammer and the piece is loose. You accept to take a heavy hammer on the back side then things just dont bounce.

For the suspension upper/lower control arm, I have the complete piece out of the motorcar (it should be possible to do it on the car if y'all have an extra person to hold the big sledge.) I plant that it was very easy to support it on a large sledgehammer, then I gave it a few skilful hits and it jumped out by itself.

I think for this one I had to hit it 7 times. After this the photo was taken, information technology had jumped out by itself, I have not moved it by hand or something similar that. This is a method usually used past car mechanics in Sweden. You practise non destroy the pieces (like y'all can do with large pullers and other stuff) The hole volition still be circular after the massage, you just use the flexing capabilities of the steel to go the pieces autonomously."

Mat, thanks for the keen pictures & instructions.

full amount of time: 2 boots in about 4 hours. But again: those ball joints can exist a real hassle to separate.

costs: about two euro/U.s.a. dollar per boot.

Story by Sean750

If you would similar to add together whatever comments, remarks and/or corrections to this process, feel free to e-mail Mike Oswald and we'll put information technology on our site. Share your experiences with us and then others may benefit from it.

Source: http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/ball_joint_boots/replacingLowerBallJointBoot.html

Posted by: murphykneliking.blogspot.com

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